![]() If you’re not sure, you can always ask your doctor on your next visit. To calculate your ape index, you need your height and arm span. Not to worry, they are both very simple and use the same measurements. It certainly doesn’t prevent him from on-sighting 9a (5.14d) routes! Famous Climbers’ Ape Indices Climber ![]() And, above all, it shouldn’t deter prospective climbers from trying climbing!įor example, Alexander Megos, one of the most accomplished climbers, has an index of 1. While having a positive ape index can boost confidence in one’s abilities to crush routes, it shouldn’t discourage climbers with a negative ape index. ![]() In hindsight, not the most practical solution to conquer boulders and routes (maybe an app?). This leaves us with surveying climbers in the gym or the crag for their Ape index. For example, if you’re stuck on a particular boulder problem, the beta may come from another climber with a similar ape index ratio. However, the Ape factor could be a way to compare yourself apple to apple to other climbers. If anything, you might lose a bit of height as you get older, but surely that’s not something any of us would welcome! It doesn’t matter if you stretch every day, even from a young age your arm span and height are determined by genetics. The ape index is not among the trainable factors. Similarly, shorter arms than height would be detrimental to performance.Įven if this was true, how would this help us to become better climbers? Meaning that having longer arms than your height could lead to better rock climbing ability. However, let’s imagine for a second that the Ape index does matter. Similarly, there’s nothing indicating that a lower ape index can negatively impact your ability. Could the ape index be completely irrelevant after all? Should you care about the Ape Index?Īs we have seen with our scientific literature review above, it doesn’t seem that an ape index greater than 1 (ratio) gives a competitive advantage. The swimming champion has a score of 1.03 or +2″ (5 cm).Īs for climbing, science doesn’t support the positive effect of a higher ape index on swimming performance ( 5). They concluded that “this may be explained by the higher body fat percentage, and lower grip strength, height, ape index, and power output of the female climbers.” In other sports However, the researchers couldn’t measure the influence of each factor. It concluded that male climbers placed higher than their female counterparts in competitions. The only study we found supporting the beneficial impact of higher ape indexes on climbing efficiency is the one by Moss et al. (2017) ( 3) also failed to identify the Ape factor as a significant predictor of performance differences when comparing elite and non-elite athletes in climbing. In other words, the higher-than-average ape index of these young climbing rockstars may be exactly what led them to practice sport climbing competitively in the first place! ![]() (2003) ( 2) investigating the anthropometric characteristics of young competitive rock climbers (also published in the BMJ) concluded that there was “no correlation between the ape index and climbing ability.” However, they suggested these results may be due to the low variability in the ape factor among the climbers in the study. ![]()
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